Nihongami

What it is

Nihongami encompasses various traditional Japanese hairstyles characterized by distinctive structural elements. The most common form features two side 'wings' that curve upward toward the back of the head to form a topknot. A long loop of hair is often drawn into this knot as well. These styles are heavily accessorized, with the combination of the cut and ornaments indicating the wearer's gender, age, occupation, and social rank. Historically, they were stiffened with wax and styled with specialized combs, creating a rigid, sculpted appearance that differed significantly from natural hair flow.

Where it comes from

Early Japanese noblewomen in the 7th century adopted high, boxy styles inspired by Chinese fashion, known as keppatsu. By the Heian period, this shifted to long, loose hair called suberakashi. During the Edo period, trends moved toward elaborate upswept styles with buns and side wings, originating among courtesans and actors before becoming widespread among merchants' wives. Many specific styles, such as the shimada, developed during this era. After World War II, the number of traditional stylists dwindled, leading to changes in how maiko and geisha wear these historic looks, with many original methods now preserved only within specific cultural communities.

What it means

These hairstyles served as visual markers of social identity. Variations in style denoted the wearer's age, marital status, and professional role. For instance, different hairstyles marked stages in a maiko's apprenticeship, while specific cuts distinguished geisha from brides. The complexity and ornamentation reflected social standing and adherence to cultural norms. Today, wearing nihongami signifies a connection to traditional Japanese performing arts and heritage, particularly within the geisha and kabuki communities.

How it is made

Styling begins by dividing the hair into five sections: front fringe, two side wings, a topknot, and a nape loop. Each section is directed toward the central topknot. Traditional boxwood or bamboo combs are used to shape the hair, which is then secured with wax. Waxed hair extensions, typically made of yak hair, add volume and structure. Wire cords hold the style in place, and additional combs maintain the shape against dust and dirt. The process is meticulous, often requiring weekly restyling unless a wig is worn.

Who and what it suits

The styles require long, straight hair to achieve the necessary volume and smoothness. Heated tongs were traditionally used to straighten the hair before styling. The final look is customized to complement the individual's face shape, meaning no two geisha wigs appear identical. The rigid structure accommodates various face types by adjusting the placement of the topknot and the width of the side wings.

Versions

Key variations include the shimada, worn by teenagers and geisha, and the takashimada, reserved for brides. Maiko progress through several styles like wareshinobu and sakkō as they advance in seniority. Other forms include the tsubushi shimada, a flattened version for older geisha, and the kinshōjo, worn by high-class courtesans. Each variant adjusts the size, position, and decoration of the topknot and side wings to suit specific roles and occasions.

In culture

Nihongami is deeply embedded in Japanese performing arts. Kabuki plays frequently reproduce Edo period hairstyles, preserving them on stage. Ukiyo-e artists like Utamaro documented popular trends, capturing the aesthetic of the time. In contemporary Japan, the styles are primarily maintained by geisha and maiko, serving as a living link to historical fashion. Re-enactors and tayū also keep these traditions alive, ensuring the techniques and aesthetics survive beyond the historical record.

Questions people ask about Nihongami

Good reading and sources

• Nihongami on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• More photos on Wikimedia CommonsPhotos
• Wikidata recordOpen data