Nihongami

What it is

Nihongami encompasses a variety of traditional Japanese hairstyles distinguished by their complex construction. Most styles feature two side wings curving upward to form a topknot or bun at the back of the head. A long loop of hair often hangs below this bun. The look is accessorized with combs and ornaments, typically worn by women. The specific arrangement of hair indicates the wearer's gender, age, job role, and social standing. While historically common, these styles are now rare in daily life.

Where it comes from

The tradition began in the early seventh century with noblewomen adopting high, boxy front styles inspired by China. By the Heian period, loose straight hair became fashionable. During the Edo period, trends shifted toward elaborate upswept styles like the shimada, originating from courtesans and kabuki actors before spreading to merchants' wives. Many styles documented today were created then. Post-World War II changes saw geisha adopt wigs to reduce styling time, while maiko hairstyles were redeveloped due to a shortage of skilled stylists.

What it means

These hairstyles serve as visual markers of identity and status within Japanese society. Variations in shape, volume, and accessories denote specific life stages, such as marriage or apprenticeship. For example, the sakkō marks a maiko's final weeks before becoming a geisha. The styles also reflect historical shifts in cultural influence, moving from Chinese imitation to distinct Japanese aesthetics. They remain central to the professional identity of geisha and maiko.

How it is made

Hair is divided into five sections: fringe, two side wings, a topknot, and a nape loop. Each section is styled toward the topknot using traditional bamboo or boxwood combs. Wax hardens the hair to maintain its shape, with thickness adjusted for weather. Waxed yak hair extensions provide support, secured with wire cords. Combs keep the style free of dust. The process creates a rigid structure that can last for days, especially when supported by wigs.

Who and what it suits

The styles require long, straight hair to achieve the necessary volume and length for loops and extensions. The construction allows for individual customization, meaning wigs and styles are tailored to fit each person's face shape. This ensures that no two geisha appear identical despite wearing similar base structures. The rigid nature of the waxed hair suits those who can maintain the strict grooming routine required.

Versions

Key variations include the shimada, which serves as a basis for many other styles. The takashimada is worn by brides and features a higher bun and fuller loops. Maiko wear different styles throughout their apprenticeship, such as wareshinobu for juniors and sakkō for seniors. Oiran wore elaborate styles like kinshōjo and mitsumage. Regional differences exist among maiko districts, with specific styles reserved for festivals or dances.

In culture

Nihongami are prominently featured in kabuki plays, which often date back to the Edo period. Ukiyo-e artists like Utamaro frequently depicted these hairstyles in their prints. The styles are currently maintained by a small number of traditional hairstylists in Kyoto. They represent a living heritage of Japanese craftsmanship, involving handmade combs and specialized knowledge passed down through generations.

Questions people ask about Nihongami

Good reading and sources

• Nihongami on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• Wikidata recordOpen data