Chonmage

What it is

The chonmage is a distinct male hairstyle from Japan characterized by a shaved scalp and a gathered topknot. The front and sides of the head are shaved or thinned, while the remaining hair at the crown is oiled, waxed, and tied into a small tail that is folded flat onto the head. This creates a smooth, rounded shape on the upper skull. Historically, this style served a practical purpose for warriors but evolved into a marker of social rank. In contemporary times, the look is maintained almost entirely within the world of professional sumo wrestling and traditional theatre.

Where it comes from

The practice began in the Heian period when aristocrats tied their hair to secure heavy crowns. By the late Warring States period, attitudes shifted toward shaving the head as a sign of peace and civilization after centuries of conflict. During the Edo period, the shaven pate became mandatory for all men, particularly samurai, who used the style to hold their kabuto helmets in battle. The specific knot style indicated social standing. The Meiji Restoration ended the tradition in 1871 with the Dampatsurei Edict, which forced upper-class men to cut their hair short to modernize Japan's appearance.

What it means

Originally functional for helmet wear, the chonmage became a powerful symbol of identity and status. For samurai, it denoted military class and loyalty. For commoners, wearing it was a legal requirement until the mid-Edo period. The style also carried political weight; Japanese commanders forced Koreans to adopt it during invasions to erase local identity. In modern sumo, the topknot represents the wrestler's connection to tradition. Cutting it off is the central act of retirement, symbolizing the end of one's career and return to ordinary life.

How it is made

To create a traditional chonmage, the front and sides of the head are shaved completely. The remaining hair at the crown is treated with oil and wax to make it pliable. The hair is then gathered and tied into a small tail, which is folded over onto the top of the head to form the knot. Modern sumo wrestlers may not shave the entire pate but instead thin the area or shave the crown center, known as nakazori, to help the knot sit neatly. Specialist hairdressers called tokoyama perform these cuts and preparations every few months.

Versions

The basic chonmage varies by social rank. Samurai knots were more pronounced than those of artisans or merchants. Ronin, or masterless samurai, were often exempt from shaving their heads, making them easily identifiable. In sumo, higher-ranked wrestlers called sekitori wear an elaborate version called the oichō, where the knot is splayed out to resemble a ginkgo leaf. Most wrestlers only wear this complex style during major tournaments or their final retirement ceremony.

In culture

The chonmage is deeply embedded in Japanese history and popular culture. It is instantly recognized as the signature look of the samurai era. In modern Japan, it is preserved by sumo wrestlers and kabuki actors, keeping the aesthetic alive in sports and performance arts. The style has influenced perceptions of Asian masculinity and colonialism, particularly regarding its forced adoption in Korea. It remains a potent visual symbol of Japanese heritage, discipline, and historical transition.

Questions people ask about Chonmage

Good reading and sources

• Chonmage on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• More photos on Wikimedia CommonsPhotos
• Wikidata recordOpen data