Marcelling

What it is

Marcelling creates a series of uniform, S-shaped waves in the hair. The result looks similar to finger waves but is achieved through heat rather than setting lotions alone. It was commonly worn with a bob cut, keeping the hair around jaw length. Women with longer locks would often tie their hair at the nape and pin it above the ear. This allowed the marcelled waves to remain visible and neat. The style presents a polished, geometric appearance that frames the face.

Where it comes from

Marcel Grateau, a French inventor and stylist, developed the technique in the 1870s. Records differ on the exact year, citing either 1872 or 1875. He later moved to the United States and adopted the name François Marcel Woelfflé. Grateau secured patents for his tools, including a curling iron in 1905 and an electric waving iron in 1918. The style reached peak popularity during the 1920s. It became a standard look for modern women of that era, often associated with the flapper aesthetic.

What it means

The style represented modernity and sophistication in the early twentieth century. It allowed women to achieve a consistent, manufactured wave pattern that differed from natural texture. Wearing marcelled hair signaled adherence to contemporary fashion trends. It was a professional service, as seen in cultural references to women working as marcellers. The look conveyed a sense of order and deliberate grooming during a period of significant social change for women.

How it is made

The process requires special heated tongs designed for this purpose. The stylist clamps sections of hair between the hot plates of the tool. By rotating the tongs and pulling them through the strand, a curl is induced. This differs from finger waving, which uses hands and setting agents. For longer hair, the ends are often tied back. Pins or decorative flowers may secure the hair above the ear. The heat sets the shape until the next wash.

Who and what it suits

This technique works on various hair types that can hold a heat-set curl. It was particularly popular for those with bobbed haircuts. The structured waves complement the sharp lines of a short cut. It requires hair that can withstand the temperature of the tongs. The style frames the face effectively, drawing attention to facial features. It is less suited for those who prefer low-maintenance or natural textures.

Versions

The primary variation involves the length of the hair. Short bobs display the waves all around the head. Longer styles involve pinning the hair up to showcase the marcelled sections near the face. The electric version of the tool, patented later, offered a different heating method. The visual result remains consistent across these variations, maintaining the signature S-wave pattern.

In culture

The hairstyle appears in several cultural touchstones from the early 1900s. The 1914 song By the Beautiful Sea mentions a character who marcells hair. Keep Young and Beautiful, a hit in 1934, also references the practice. The doo-wop group the Marcels took their name from this style. In cinema, Some Like It Hot features a character complaining about her marcelled hair. Comedian Kenny Everett parodied the style with a character named Marcel Wave.

Questions people ask about Marcelling

Good reading and sources

• Marcelling on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• More photos on Wikimedia CommonsPhotos
• Wikidata recordOpen data