Victory rolls

What it is

This hairstyle features large, cylindrical rolls of hair that resemble sausages. The curls are typically positioned on the sides of the head above the ears or on top of the crown. A defining characteristic is the open curl facing forward, creating a distinct shape. The style was primarily worn by women and required significant volume. Variations included single rolls or pairs, sometimes incorporating smaller curls to mimic Morse code dots and dashes associated with victory symbols.

Where it comes from

The style peaked between 1940 and 1945 during World War II. Its name likely derives from the horizontal spinning of aircraft during victory celebrations, the practical need to keep hair away from factory machinery, or the 'V for Victory' campaign popularized in London. Film stars like Ingrid Bergman and Greta Garbo helped cement its status as a beauty ideal. After 1945, smoother styles replaced it until modern revivals in swing dance and vintage parties brought it back.

What it means

Beyond fashion, the style carried strong patriotic weight. It symbolized support for the war effort and the new roles women took on in factories and military service. The practical aspect of securing hair safely around dangerous equipment reinforced its association with diligence and national duty. The visual link to victory signals and aircraft maneuvers further embedded it in the cultural narrative of triumph and resilience during the conflict.

How it is made

Creating the look involves several steps. First, hair is backcombed at the roots to build volume. Then, sections are rolled into cylindrical shapes using pins to hold them in place. Hair spray is applied to maintain the structure. The rolls can be placed above the ears to frame the face or centered on top. Women with thinner faces often positioned the rolls in front of their ears to create width. Achieving a sleek finish required either professional salon services or careful home styling with wigs.

Who and what it suits

Placing the rolls in front of the ears can make thinner faces appear wider. It suits women who desire a dramatic, voluminous look aligned with 1940s beauty standards. The technique relies on backcombing, which adds body, making it adaptable for different hair densities if sufficient product and skill are used.

Versions

Variations included single rolls versus pairs. Some designs incorporated three small curls representing dots and one long curl for a dash, mimicking telegraph codes. Other styles featured a 'V' shape in the parting itself. The bottom of the 'V' could start at the nape of the neck and sweep up toward the temples. These variations maintained the core element of the prominent side roll while altering placement and decorative details.

In culture

The style is deeply tied to pin-up culture and mid-century femininity. It appears in modern artistic homages, such as those by designer Paulo Persil, who recreated 1940s looks in 2016. Beauty salons occasionally collaborate with photographers to produce vintage-inspired lingerie imagery. The aesthetic remains popular within swing dance communities and themed events, preserving its connection to the social history of the 1940s.

Questions people ask about Victory rolls

Good reading and sources

• BBC Two - Hair, Series 1, Laura’s Victory Rolls Hair TutorialBBC, Article

• Victory rolls on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• More photos on Wikimedia CommonsPhotos
• Wikidata recordOpen data