Perm

What it is

A perm creates lasting waves or curls in the hair through chemical or thermal means. The result resembles natural curls but is artificially set. It typically lasts for several months as the treated hair grows out. The style can produce two-dimensional flat waves or three-dimensional spiral curls depending on the winding technique used during the application process.

Where it comes from

The first practical thermal method was created by Marcel Grateau in 1872 using heated tongs. In 1905, Karl Nessler invented an electric machine using sodium hydroxide and brass rollers. Eugene Suter and Isidoro Calvete later improved the technology with better heaters and windings. By the 1930s, the process was well-established, with many women perming regularly.

What it means

Perms became a symbol of modernity and self-determination for women in the early twentieth century. As women cut their hair short during World War I, waving became a way to add volume and style to shorter lengths. The treatment allowed women to maintain styled hair without daily effort, reflecting changing social roles and fashion trends.

How it is made

Hair is washed and sectioned. Each lock is wound onto rods or curlers. Chemical reagents containing ammonia or borax are applied to break and reform hair bonds. Heat is often used to accelerate the reaction. After processing, the chemicals are neutralized, and the hair is rinsed while still on the rods before being released.

Who and what it suits

Originally suited for long hair, perms were adapted for shorter styles as electric equipment became smaller. The treatment works on various hair types to create waves or curls. The size of the curl depends on the diameter of the rods used and the tension of the winding.

Versions

Variations include root winding for three-dimensional curls and point winding for flatter waves. Cold-waving methods were developed to avoid high heat. Chemical straightening uses similar processes but flattens the hair instead of curling it. Different reagents and heater designs have led to numerous specific techniques over time.

In culture

Perms were heavily marketed through magazines like The Eugène Waver. Companies produced specialized equipment and reagents for salons. The treatment became a staple of hairdressing services, with regular appointments for maintenance. Legal battles over patents occurred between major manufacturers like Nessler and Eugene.

Questions people ask about Perm

Good reading and sources

• Perm (hairstyle) on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• More photos on Wikimedia CommonsPhotos
• Wikidata recordOpen data