Bouffant

What it is

This style features hair raised high on the head to create a puffy, rounded shape. The volume usually covers the ears or hangs down the sides. It creates a taller silhouette for the wearer. The look is smooth on the surface but relies on tangled hair underneath for structure. It was a standard choice for American housewives in the 1960s and remains associated with polished, formal appearances.

Where it comes from

The style descends from the 18th-century pouf worn by French aristocracy. It reappeared in the late Victorian era as a sign of upper-class status. American illustrator Charles Dana Gibson popularised it via the Gibson Girl aesthetic before World War I. British stylist Raymond Bessone revived it in the 1950s, calling it teasy-weasy. Jacqueline Kennedy cemented its place in history with her low bouffant bob. Later, it became a staple for 1960s R&B girl groups.

What it means

Historically, voluminous hair signaled wealth and high social standing. In the 19th century, it marked the upper socio-economic classes who could afford hairpieces and cosmetic solutions. By the mid-20th century, it represented a specific ideal of feminine beauty and domestic polish. The height of the hair was intended to make the wearer appear taller and more imposing. It served as a visual marker of traditional gender roles during the post-war era.

How it is made

Stylists raise hair on the top and upper sides by backcombing or teasing it with a comb. This creates a pile of loosely knotted hair. Smooth, unteased hair from the front is then combed over this base to hide the tangles. A wiglet or nylon mesh cushion may be added at the crown for extra height. Hairspray or lacquer is applied to stiffen the structure. Adjustments are made with the pointed end of a rattail comb to avoid brushing out the volume.

Who and what it suits

The style requires enough length to create significant volume, typically medium to long hair. It works with various hair textures, though products are often needed to hold the shape. It was designed to elongate the figure, making it suitable for those wishing to appear taller. The smooth outer layer contrasts with the teased interior, requiring hair that can hold a set without collapsing under its own weight.

Versions

The beehive is a notable variation, featuring a hive-like roll of hair on the crown. It is often higher than the standard bouffant and may include bangs. The pompadour is another related style that shares the voluminous aesthetic. In the 1950s, it appeared as a low bouffant bob. Modern revivals often blend these elements, with artists like Amy Winehouse showcasing updated versions of the beehive form.

In culture

The style defined the look of 1960s girl groups such as The Supremes and The Ronettes. It drove significant sales of hair rollers and hairspray during that decade. In the 2000s, Amy Winehouse brought the beehive variant back into mainstream attention. The 2010s saw a resurgence linked to hipster and retro rockabilly trends, with stars like Adele and Rihanna adopting the look. It remains a powerful symbol of mid-century fashion.

Questions people ask about Bouffant

Good reading and sources

• Bouffant on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• More photos on Wikimedia CommonsPhotos
• Wikidata recordOpen data