Beehive

What it is

This style features long hair gathered into a tall, conical shape on the crown of the head. The mass points slightly backward, mimicking the form of a traditional woven bee skep. It is distinct from the bouffant, which is wider and covers the ears, and the pompadour, which sweeps up from the forehead. The height depends on the length of the hair and the volume created through teasing. It creates a smooth outer shell over a tangled internal structure.

Where it comes from

Margaret Vinci Heldt, a Chicago stylist, developed the look in 1960. Editors at Modern Beauty Salon magazine commissioned her to design a style for the new decade. She based the shape on a fez-like hat she owned. Although she did not name it herself, a reporter suggested the term after seeing a bee-shaped pin in the model's hair. The style dominated the 1960s in Western countries. Heldt received a scholarship named in her honour from Cosmetologists Chicago for her contribution to the trade.

What it means

The beehive serves as an enduring symbol of 1960s kitsch and femininity. It represented a move towards elaborate, structured grooming that required time and product. In later decades, it signified nostalgia or specific subcultural affiliations, such as the rockabilly or new wave scenes. For characters like Bet Lynch or Patsy Stone, it defined their public persona and visual identity, often conveying boldness or eccentricity.

How it is made

Stylists begin by backcombing sections of hair at the crown to create a dense, tangled base. This teasing provides the necessary volume and structural support. The outer layer is then lightly combed over to form a smooth surface without collapsing the inner pile. Heavy lacquer or hairspray is applied to hold the shape firmly. The taller the desired cone, the more teasing and product are required. Early versions sometimes incorporated hat pins for decoration or stability.

Who and what it suits

The style requires sufficient hair length to build height, making it unsuitable for very short crops. It can be adapted for various hair textures through aggressive teasing and strong-hold products. While originally popular among women with straight or wavy hair, modern interpretations appear on diverse hair types. The vertical volume elongates the visual silhouette, which may complement rounder face shapes by adding height.

Versions

The bouffant is a related style that uses similar teasing techniques but results in a wider, puffier shape around the sides rather than a central cone. The B-52 nickname refers to the specific high, rounded variant resembling the nose of the Boeing bomber. Some 1960s styles blended beehive elements with bouffant volume. Modern revivals often feature looser structures or incorporate fringes, as seen in the look popularised by Amy Winehouse.

Questions people ask about Beehive

Good reading and sources

• Margaret Vinci Heldt, creator of the beehive hairstyle, dies at age 98The Guardian, Article
• Why We Celebrated the Beehive and Its Maker (Published 2016)The New York Times, Article

• Beehive (hairstyle) on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• More photos on Wikimedia CommonsPhotos
• Wikidata recordOpen data