Backcombing

What it is

Backcombing is a styling technique designed to increase hair volume. The process involves taking sections of hair and combing them repeatedly towards the scalp. This action causes the strands to tangle and knot at the base. The resulting friction creates a cushion of hair that lifts the outer layers. It is a key component in creating big hair looks such as bouffants and beehives. Both men and women use this method to achieve height and texture in their hairstyles.

Where it comes from

This technique has been associated with various musical and cultural movements. American girl groups like The Crystals and The Ronettes utilized voluminous styles that likely relied on teasing. In later decades, figures such as Cyndi Lauper and Amy Winehouse adopted looks featuring significant height. The punk and goth subcultures also embraced backcombing, with artists like Siouxsie Sioux and Robert Smith using it to create distinctive silhouettes. English comedians and musicians including Russell Brand and Noel Fielding have also sported teased hair.

What it means

Backcombing serves primarily as a fashion statement focused on exaggeration and presence. It allows wearers to transform flat hair into dramatic shapes. Within subcultures, it can signal affiliation with specific music scenes, such as punk or rock. The style emphasizes boldness and visual impact. However, it also represents a trade-off between aesthetic goals and hair health, as the method intentionally disrupts the smooth alignment of hair strands to achieve its effect.

How it is made

To backcomb, select a small section of hair. Hold it taut away from the head. Use a fine-toothed comb to stroke the hair downwards towards the scalp. Repeat this motion several times on the same section. The friction causes the cuticle scales to catch and lock together. This creates a matted base. Once the desired volume is achieved, gently smooth the top layer of hair over the teased section to hide the tangles. Avoid brushing through the roots afterward to maintain the lift.

Who and what it suits

This technique works on any hair texture, though results vary. It is suitable for those seeking temporary volume without chemical treatments. It is not ideal for individuals prioritizing hair integrity, as the process causes progressive damage. The friction weakens the hair shaft and leads to breakage. People who wish to maintain long, healthy hair should avoid frequent teasing. It is best used occasionally for specific events or styles rather than as a daily routine.

Versions

Backcombing is integral to several classic hairstyles. It forms the foundation of the beehive, a high conical style popular in the 1960s. It is also essential for creating bouffants, which feature puffed-up hair around the crown. Some methods of forming dreadlocks involve teasing hair to encourage knotting and matting. These variations all rely on the same principle of intentional tangling to build structure and height within the hairstyle.

In culture

The style has appeared prominently in music and entertainment. Artists like Amy Winehouse and Cyndi Lauper made teased hair part of their public image. In the goth scene, Robert Smith’s voluminous look became iconic. The technique is linked to the aesthetic of girl groups from the 1960s. While visually striking, it is often discussed in the context of hair care risks. The damage caused by rubbing the cuticle scales is a well-known drawback among stylists and wearers.

Questions people ask about Backcombing

Good reading and sources

• Backcombing on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• Wikidata recordOpen data