Waves

What it is

Waves are a distinct hairstyle designed for kinky and curly hair textures. The look features a short-cropped cut on top where the natural curls are repeatedly brushed or combed. This action flattens the curls against the scalp, creating a uniform ripple-like pattern across the head. It is primarily worn by men who wish to style their natural texture into a smooth, undulating surface rather than letting it stand up in its natural coil.

Where it comes from

This style gained popularity in the early 20th century. During this period, many African-American men began using texture-altering products to manage and style their hair. The specific technique of using pomade and moisturisers became widespread, leading to the term pomade hair moisturizer waves. Men would wash their hair, apply their chosen moisturiser, brush it thoroughly and immediately cover it with a durag to set the pattern.

What it means

The style represents a method of grooming that works with natural hair texture rather than altering it chemically. It requires discipline and routine care, reflecting a commitment to maintaining a sharp appearance. The practice of wolfing, or growing hair out for weeks to deepen the wave pattern, shows a dedication to the aesthetic process. It serves as a cultural marker within African-American communities for men seeking defined, structured styles.

How it is made

To achieve waves, one starts with a short haircut. The hair must be brushed or combed frequently in a consistent direction to train the curls to lie flat. After washing, a moisturiser or wave pomade is applied to prevent dryness and hold the hair in place. A silky durag or wave cap is then worn to compress the hair. This compression adds strength to the flattening process and helps preserve moisture while the hair sets into the ripple pattern.

Who and what it suits

This hairstyle is specifically suited for individuals with kinky and curly hair types. Straight or wavy hair does not have the necessary coil structure to form the characteristic ripple pattern when brushed flat. It works best on short hair lengths, as longer hair requires more compression to maintain the wave definition. Those with thicker curl patterns may need more frequent brushing and heavier moisturisers to achieve the desired flatness.

Versions

The main variation involves the depth and definition of the waves, which can be enhanced through a process called wolfing. This involves allowing the hair to grow out for several weeks without cutting it, which helps develop deeper and better-defined ripples. Different tools such as various brush stiffnesses or specific wave caps may be used to adjust the tightness of the pattern. The use of different pomades also alters the hold and shine of the final look.

Questions people ask about Waves

Good reading and sources

• The Durag, Explained (Published 2018)The New York Times, Article

• Waves (hairstyle) on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• More photos on Wikimedia CommonsPhotos
• Wikidata recordOpen data