High roll

What it is

This style features hair raised significantly above the head, sometimes reaching two feet in height. The wearer’s natural hair is combed and shaped using stiffening agents. Additional volume comes from inserted wire frames, pillows, or extra hair sourced from animals or other people. The result creates a towering silhouette that can double the apparent height of the head. Women often powdered the hair white, grey, or brown. Decorations such as feathers, jewelry, or small sculptures were frequently placed within the structure.

Where it comes from

Emerging in France during the late 1760s, the trend spread to London and North America. Earlier in the century, women wore simpler curls and caps. As men adopted complex wigs, women began mimicking these elaborate structures. The style grew taller over time, becoming a hallmark of the late 1700s. By the end of the century, fashion shifted back toward more natural looks, ending the era of extreme height. Queen Marie Antoinette was a notable wearer of this extravagant style.

What it means

The high roll served as a clear marker of social status. Creating it required hours of professional labor, signaling wealth. However, it also drew sharp criticism. In America, during the Revolutionary War, the style became linked to British loyalists. Critics viewed it as unpatriotic compared to homespun clothing. Some observers mocked the look, comparing women to soldiers with plumed helmets or making derogatory racial comparisons. Political cartoons frequently satirized the excessive height and ornamentation.

How it is made

Hairdressers began by combing the hair thoroughly. They applied pomatum, a mixture of fat, oil, and scent, to hold the shape and kill lice. Wire frames or pillows were inserted to provide structural support. Extra hair was added for volume. The hair was then set in curlers, often left overnight. Pins secured the final shape. Because the process was lengthy and difficult to undo, the style was maintained for several weeks without major changes.

Who and what it suits

The style was designed for women of means who could afford the time and cost. It did not depend on specific face shapes but rather on the ability to support the weight and height. The hair could be any natural color, though powder was commonly used to alter the appearance. It required significant patience due to the itching and odor associated with the materials used.

Versions

Variations included the addition of diverse ornaments. Some women placed feathers, while others chose jewelry or miniature sculptures of plants and animals. The height varied, with some reaching extreme proportions. Curls were sometimes arranged along the neck or sides. The color could be natural or altered with powder to achieve grey, brown, or white tones.

Questions people ask about High roll

Good reading and sources

• High roll on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• Wikidata recordOpen data