Chinese hairpin

What it is

These are slender ornaments inserted into coiled hair to hold it in place. Historically worn by both men and women prior to the Qing dynasty, they secured hair into buns. The designs ranged from simple single pins to elaborate double-pin structures adorned with gemstones or carved figures. Materials included bone, jade, gold, silver, ivory, and wood, with the complexity and substance indicating the wearer's social standing.

Where it comes from

The earliest forms appeared in the Neolithic Hemudu culture relics around 5500 BC to 3300 BC. Initially crafted from bone, horn, stone, and jade, the practice evolved through the Shang and Zhou dynasties. By the Bronze Age, gold pins arrived from northern borders. The Tang dynasty introduced engraved wooden pins, while the Ming era saw increased elaboration with pearl settings on silver and jade. The style persisted through various imperial changes until the Qing dynasty altered hair customs.

What it means

Hairpins held deep cultural significance beyond mere utility. They marked social hierarchy, with materials and ornamentation reflecting wealth and rank. For Han Chinese women, the 'ji li' ceremony at age fifteen signified adulthood and eligibility for marriage. They also functioned as love tokens; couples would split a double-pin during separation or exchange them during betrothal, symbolizing unity and fidelity upon reunion.

How it is made

The wearer coiled their long hair into a bun at the crown or back of the head. A single-pin variant, known as a zan, was inserted vertically or horizontally to lock the coil. Double-pin versions, called chai, provided additional stability. Elaborate types like the buyao featured dangling elements that moved with the wearer. Decorative tops often depicted phoenixes, dragons, or auspicious symbols, requiring careful placement to ensure the hair remained secure.

Who and what it suits

The style requires sufficient hair length to form a bun, which was standard for adult men and women in ancient China. It suits any hair type capable of being coiled and pinned, regardless of thickness or curl pattern.

Versions

Several distinct types existed. The zan featured a single pin, available in tiger-head or ruyi scepter shapes. The chai had double or multiple pins and served as a common love token. The buyao was an exquisite, jewel-encrusted pin with dangling parts that swayed with movement. Phoenix hairpins originated in the Qin dynasty and evolved into the fengguan headdress. Other variants included the diancui (kingfisher feather) and the jin chan yu yue (gold cicada on jade leaf).

In culture

These ornaments were central to Chinese traditions, appearing in poetry and literature as symbols of romance and identity. Imperial edicts dictated specific designs for empresses, such as the phoenix motif representing the bride or empress dowager. Peranakan women adopted phoenix hairpins for wedding headdresses. During funerals, mourners abstained from wearing them, highlighting their role in daily life and celebration versus grief.

Questions people ask about Chinese hairpin

Good reading and sources

• Chinese hairpin on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• More photos on Wikimedia CommonsPhotos
• Wikidata recordOpen data