Buyao: A Chinese hairpin with dangling ornaments that sway when the wearer moves.

The buyao is a traditional Chinese hair ornament featuring hanging beads or jewels. It originated in the Han dynasty as a symbol of high status for noble women before becoming popular among civilians centuries later.

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The name means 'shake as you go' due to dangling ornaments.
Originated in the Han dynasty for noble women only.
Made from gold, jade, pearls, silver, or agate.
Worn by Murong Xianbei men and women as crowns.
Depicted on the Mawangdui tomb funeral banner.

What it is

This accessory is a type of Chinese hairpin designed to move. It features carved designs and jewelries that dangle from the top. The name literally translates to 'shake as you go'. Unlike standard hairpins, the defining trait is the suspended ornaments. These pieces sway when the wearer walks. They are typically made from precious materials like gold, silver, jade, or pearls. The style was originally reserved for elite women but later adopted by commoners.

Where it comes from

The buyao appeared during the Han dynasty, initially restricted to royal noblewomen. Early depictions appear on the Mawangdui tomb funeral banner showing Lady Dai. During the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern dynasties, two forms existed: the buyao flower for women in the Central plains and the buyao crown worn by men and women in Yan and Dai regions among the Xianbei people. The Murong Xianbei leader Mohuba introduced the crown style after observing its use in Yan and Dai. By the Tang dynasty, golden versions decorated with birds and flowers were favored by empresses. The style eventually reached Japan during the Eastern Han period.

What it means

In ancient times, wearing this ornament denoted noble status. Only elite women could wear it initially. Some nobles placed them on tiaras for greater luxury. For the Murong Xianbei, gold ornaments with dangling leaves represented early elite culture. Designs like the bixie symbol were used to ward off ill luck and maintain happiness. The style reflected social hierarchy and cultural exchange between Central Plains and nomadic tribes.

How it is made

The pin is inserted into the hair. It features a structure where hanging beads or ornaments are attached to the top. When the wearer takes a step, these elements sway. The design often includes branches shaped like blooming flowers or birds. Thin branches extend outward, causing ornaments to shake with movement. Materials such as gold form the base, while pearls or gems are strung on intertwining elements. Tassels and pendants may also be included.

A drawing made by EveryHairstyle from what this page says. It is a diagram, not a picture of the real hairstyle.

Versions

Two main types emerged during the Northern and Southern dynasties: the buyao flower and the buyao crown. The flower was prevalent in the Central plains and Southern dynasties, worn only by women. The crown was worn by both genders in Yan and Dai regions. Designs varied significantly due to cultural differences between the Central plains and Yan-Dai areas. Later variations included dragon and phoenix motifs, butterfly shapes, and floral patterns. Lower-ranking court ladies wore simplified versions compared to empresses.

In culture

The style appears in the Admonitions Scroll attributed to Gu Kaizhi, depicting court ladies with delicate bird-shaped ornaments. Historical texts like the Shiming and Hanshu describe its structure and use by officials. Empresses wore specific buyao configurations with gold mountain-shaped fronts and white pearl cassia branches during ancestral shrine visits. The Wuhuan women also adopted the style, growing long hair and decorating it with pins. The Murong Xianbei adopted the crown style after migration, integrating it into their elite identity.

Scene 11 (A lady reflects upon her conduct) of the British Museum copy of the " Admonitions Scroll ", attributed to Gu Kaizhi. — Scene 11 (A lady reflects upon her conduct) of the British Museum copy of the " Admonitions Scroll ", attributed to Gu K. Photo: Gu Kaizhi (c.345-c.406), Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Tree-shaped gold shimmering deahdress.. Photo: Augusthaiho, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Questions people ask about Buyao

What does the word buyao mean?

It translates to 'step-shake' or 'shake as you go'. This refers to the dangling ornaments that sway when the wearer walks. The movement is the key feature distinguishing it from static hairpins.

Who was allowed to wear buyao originally?

During the Han dynasty, only noble women in the royal family could wear them. They signified high social status. Centuries later, after the Han fell, ordinary civilians were permitted to wear them too.

How do buyao differ from regular hairpins?

While similar to zan hairpins, buyao have dangling ornaments as their primary characteristic. These hanging beads or jewels move with the wearer's steps, creating a swaying effect not found in standard pins.

What materials were used to make them?

Common materials included gold, jade, and pearls. Other valuable options were silver and agate. Noblewomen sometimes combined them with tiaras for more luxurious displays.

Good reading and sources

Where this page comes from

The facts on this page come from the Wikipedia article "Buyao", written by its contributors and used under the CC BY-SA 4.0 licence, and from its Wikidata record (CC0). EveryHairstyle rewrote the text in its own words, with AI assistance, and compares every page with the article to make sure no passage is copied. It may be reused under the same CC BY-SA 4.0 licence with a link back.

It may contain mistakes, and figures change over time. Nothing here is investment or buying advice. If something is wrong, tell us. Last refreshed 2026-11-15.

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