Cornrows

What it is

This style involves weaving hair into tight, continuous rows that sit flush against the scalp. Artisans use an underhand technique to lift the braid upwards, creating a raised ridge. Designs range from simple straight lines to complex geometric or curved patterns. Both men and women wear this look, often adding accessories like beads or metal cuffs. It serves as a protective measure for natural hair textures, keeping strands secure and neat.

Where it comes from

Depictions of similar styles appear in Stone Age paintings from the Tassili Plateau around 3000 B.C. and among ancient Cushitic people by 2000 B.C. Archaeological finds in Nubia date remains to 550–750 A.D. The practice spread through West Africa, influencing enslaved Africans taken to the Americas. In Ethiopia, male warriors and kings wore braided styles like the shuruba in the 19th century. The term 'cornrow' first appeared in American English in 1769 referring to crops, but described the hairstyle by 1902.

What it means

The style functions as a vital marker of identity, kinship, and social status within many African communities. Braiding acts as a communal ritual that transmits cultural values between generations. For Black Americans and Caribbean peoples, it represents self-expression and creativity. Folklore suggests enslaved people used these patterns to map escape routes or communicate secretly. Today, it remains a powerful statement of Black pride and individuality amidst ongoing cultural debates.

How it is made

Start by sectioning the hair into precise paths. Using an underhand grip, weave three strands together while lifting the braid upward toward the scalp. Continue this motion to form a continuous, raised row. Patterns can follow straight trajectories or curve into intricate shapes. The process requires significant time, taking up to five hours for dense or wide braids. Maintenance involves gentle washing and scalp oiling to prevent dryness and keep the style intact for weeks.

Who and what it suits

The style is particularly suited for coily or kinky hair textures common in African populations. The tight structure works best with hair that can hold tension without slipping. While primarily associated with Black women, men also wear this cut. It offers a practical solution for active lifestyles, keeping hair out of the face during sports or work. The flat profile minimizes tangling and reduces daily grooming effort.

Versions

Related styles include box braids, Dutch braids, and melon coiffures, though cornrows remain distinct due to their scalp-hugging nature. In the Caribbean, the variant is known as canerows, referencing sugar cane fields. Yoruba speakers call them kolese or irun didi. Ethiopian traditions feature the shuruba, which incorporates cornrow-like elements. Modern adaptations may include decorative elements like beads or metallic cuffs woven into the plaits.

In culture

Cornrows have faced legal challenges regarding workplace and school dress codes. In 1981, Renee Rogers sued American Airlines over bans on braided hairstyles. The UK High Court ruled in 2011 that schools must accommodate such cultural practices. California passed the CROWN Act in 2019 to prohibit hair texture discrimination. Athletes like Allen Iverson popularized the look in mainstream sports during the 1990s and 2000s. The style remains central to discussions on natural hair discrimination and misogynoir.

Questions people ask about Cornrows

Good reading and sources

• BBC NEWS | HealthBBC, Article

• Cornrows on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• More photos on Wikimedia CommonsPhotos
• Wikidata recordOpen data