Fontange
A towering headdress and hairstyle popular in late 17th century Europe.
The fontange was a high headdress worn by women in Europe during the late 1600s and early 1700s. It featured elaborate ribbons, lace, and wire supports piled above the forehead. The style originated from court fashion and spread across the continent despite some restrictions.
- Named after the Duchesse de Fontange, mistress of Louis XIV.
- Supported by a wire framework called a commode.
- Popular in England where it was known as the top-knot.
- Forbidden at French state occasions despite court origins.
- Term later used for corsage ribbons around 1850.
What it is
The fontange is a complex headdress that sits atop the head. It consists of a small linen cap supporting decorative elements like ribbon bows, lace, and fabric. These decorations are called frelanges. A wire structure known as a commode holds the assembly upright. The wearer’s hair is styled in tight curls piled high above the forehead. Lappets often drape down the sides of the face or the back of the head. The entire creation stands taller than the natural hair itself.
Where it comes from
This style emerged in France during the 1680s. Legend claims it began when the Duchesse de Fontange tied her hair with a ribbon after losing her cap while hunting with King Louis XIV. Court ladies imitated this look, and it spread throughout Europe. In England, it was widely known as the top-knot. Women from all social ranks wore versions of it. The design grew increasingly tall and intricate over time, using more fabric and trimmings. Despite its popularity, French authorities forbade it at state occasions, though the English court embraced it.
What it means
The fontange signified high fashion and courtly status. Its complexity demonstrated wealth and access to skilled makers. Because it became so widespread among different classes, it also attracted satire and criticism. The style represented the elaborate aesthetic of the late Baroque period. It served as a visual marker of aristocratic influence that trickled down through society.
How it is made
Wearers first gathered their hair into tight curls at the crown. They might use a wire frame called a pallisade for extra height. A small linen cap provided a base. The frelange structure was built upon this using a commode framework. Ribbons, lace, and additional fabrics were arranged decoratively. Pins secured the materials in place. Lappets were attached to frame the face or hang at the back. The result was a rigid, towering silhouette.
Versions
The term fontange sometimes refers only to the ribbon decorations rather than the whole assembly. The associated hairstyle is distinct but often grouped with the headdress. In England, the style was commonly called the top-knot. Later usage applied the word to corsage ribbons around 1850. Surviving examples include those on fashion dolls from the 1690s, showing the commode and lace details intact.
In culture
The fontange appeared in portraits of royalty, such as Queen Mary wearing one. It became a target for satirical commentary due to its ubiquity across social classes. The style reflects the theatrical nature of European court dress. It remains a notable example of historical headgear in fashion history. Modern references often cite the Duchesse de Fontange story as its origin point.
Questions people ask about Fontange
What is a fontange?
It is a high headdress popular in late 17th century Europe. It features ribbons, lace, and wire supports piled above the forehead. The style includes both the physical accessory and the underlying hairstyle.
How was the fontange supported?
The structure relied on a wire framework called a commode. This held the decorative elements upright. Sometimes a separate wire frame called a pallisade supported the hair curls beneath the headdress.
Why is it called a fontange?
It is named for the Duchesse de Fontange. Legend says she tied her hair with a ribbon after losing her cap while hunting with King Louis XIV. Her courtiers imitated the look, spreading the trend.
Was the fontange worn everywhere?
It was popular in France and England. However, French authorities forbade it at state occasions. The English court accepted it, and Queen Mary had portraits painted wearing one.
Good reading and sources
The facts on this page come from the Wikipedia article "Fontange", written by its contributors and used under the CC BY-SA 4.0 licence, and from its Wikidata record (CC0). EveryHairstyle rewrote the text in its own words, with AI assistance, and compares every page with the article to make sure no passage is copied. It may be reused under the same CC BY-SA 4.0 licence with a link back.
It may contain mistakes, and figures change over time. Nothing here is investment or buying advice. If something is wrong, tell us. Last refreshed 2026-11-15.
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